6"/6/5" In front doors

there isn't much space in the doors for putting anything in there with all the power window stuffs.....especially near the lower front where you would want them....in fact there is no depth at all if I remember correctly, and the window motor and the guide in front of it is right where you are picturing the speaker being. You could probably remove the marker light and stuff something small in there but it wouldn't make a very good sound stage. I think you are better off modifying the stock location to stuff some 6's in there. 6 is very big though....I had trouble getting 4" in my custom door pods......6 is a lot of space in a small car.

 

If you ditch the factory boxes you will lose pretty much all of your bass, unless you plan on making some small custom boxes as well.

 

You should be able to fit some 6x4's under there no problem

 

Actually, power handling means nothing without the sensitivity rating of the speaker. Sensitivity is measured as decibels per watt, measured at 1 metre. For example, a speaker may handle a claimed 250WRMS of power with 86db/m/w sensitivity while another may handle 125WRMS of power with 93db/m/w sensitivity. 99% of people would assume the 250WRMS speaker is louder, but check this out:

For every 3db of sound increase, this is 2x louder (decibel's are measured on a logarythmic scale. To get a speaker twice as loud, takes twice as much power. So:

@ 1W we get 86db. 2W = 89db, 4W = 92db, 8W = 95db, 16W = 98db, 32W = 101db, 64W = 104db. Now this is where you get rapidly decreasing gains from the power invested, as it takes twice as much power to get 3db gain. So 128W = 107db, 256W = 110db. So now we have reached our power level, we can go no louder than 110db. If I had a calculator handy I could give the exact power that this theoretical speaker could make, but this estimate will suffice for an example.

Now lets look at our more sensitive, but lower power handling speaker.

@ 1W we get 93db. At 2W, 96db. At 4W, 99db. At 8W, 102db. At 16W, 105db. At 32w, 108db. At 64W, 111db. At 125W, 114db. So this speaker is 4db louder, with half the power But what does 4db louder mean? Roughly 2.5x louder :shock: So we have 2.5x the volume with less power, which also means less heat produced as waste by product, as well as requiring a smaller amp, less power drain, less expensive lower-capacity cable, as well as the "lower-power" speakers usually being cheaper, but we get more volume

I hope this has educated a few people why bigger is not always better. As a real world example, I have some 6x9" Jaycar speakers in my parcel shelf, usually regarded as a cheapie speaker (they retail at $120-130AUD for a pair, including crossovers). They have 93db sensitivity, with 80WRMS power handling. Its funny watching people trying to understand how they hit harder and sound louder than there 200WRMS brand-name, much more expensive speakers

 

XR man I can't even get people to ignore to MAX ratings and look at RMS. And my friends wonder why my "cheap" speakers are so freaking loud.

 

Adding a capacitor is fairly pointless, its a "bandaid" solution at best. Upgrading your alternator, cabling, battery and possibly adding a second battery (depending on how bad your current draw is) is the proper solution. If you don't believe me, google it!

I know of only one person who has bothered to make fibreglass speaker pods for the doors, it turned out ok By reading the posts, it looked like a PITA job though. I'll get some pictures for everyone next time I am on a broadband connection.

 

I've done it

 

I did it with wooden rounds with a former celica...maybe I can find some pic's of it. Wasn't much work at all.

 

well dan u know the drill throw up some pics