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Power steering pipe replacement

Discussion in 'Diagnosis/Help' started by thesherv, Dec 22, 2011.

  1. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Hi guys,well i'm in the process of replacing the high pressure pipe for the PAS,that problem i know that many of you have had to deal with at some time or other...!Anyhoo,it looks like i should be able to get a replacement from a local hose place for about £20,however...first i have to get a replacement bit for the part that screws on to the bit at the top end,that sits above/front of the brake servo,if you know what i mean.Apparently they cant re use it,so hopefully a local auto factor will have that for me..?Secondly,on that pipe theres like a metal 'crimp' about halfway along it...its assumed its there to prevent the pipe 'collapsing' if it needs to be flexed.is that right?Does it serve any purpose or can i just get a normal high pressure pipe made up,with the old fixings on it,(like in the PAS thread we have on here that Rick did)at both ends...the pics dont show a 'crimp' like mine has?
    What i mean is,replace like for like the part at the 'top' end that screws on,have a similar length of pipe to the original,with the banjo shape fitting at the 'bottom' end,with the copper double washer thingy, that fits to the pump itself;doing away with that metal crimp halfway along the pipe. :shock Hope that kind of makes sense....also,is it right i cant reuse that double copper washer/gasket part?
     
  2. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    right this might help.

    This is the crimp:

    [​IMG]

    The whole pipe.The bit on the left i have to replace,according to a couple of different places i spoke to.you can see the crimp in the middle.They cant put that onto a new pipe.Does it matter?The copper gasket on the right in pic.Ok to re use?

    [​IMG]
     
  3. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

    The 3 celica's I've had/have never had a fitting in the middle of them like that.
     
  4. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    I have just used a straight hose when replacing mine with no problems.

    That copper washer is pretty cheap to buy so I would replace it although
    in most cases the old washer will work.
     
  5. Spiderman

    Spiderman Well-Known Member

    Thanks again Rick for your excellent write up on this subject.

    There is no need for that 'crimp' in the middle for supposed 'flex'.

    Reuse both end connectors and the copper gasket (if in good nick)........... I have even heard some good luck stories where the banjo bolt has loosened and just needed a tighten........ In some cases the loose bolt has allowed movement and damaged the gasket and that had to be replaced.

    Mine has started leaking and I'm hoping I'm one of these lucky ones but I doubt it as I have fluid on the top section of the hose :aargh
     
  6. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    I wouldn't re-use a copper gasket if new ones are still available, copper is a very soft metal and the gasket would squash when tightened, I wouldn't think it would ever seal properly again?
     
  7. Spiderman

    Spiderman Well-Known Member

    Yup, good point Matt......... and as previously stated, they are as cheap as chips to buy.

    This makes me think that the banjo bolt could do with a re-check/tighten after a settling in period ?
     
  8. 187flatliner

    187flatliner Seat Breaker Donated!

    when i do the engine pull im replacing mine with one im getting made at a hydraulic shop in my area....ill be going to the yard and pulling the extra parts before hand tho....when i do this i will post pics but it wont be till maybe next years winter sometime.
     
  9. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Cheers guys,seems weird why that crime is there then.cool,ill get a couple if new bits anyway then I think,then go for the small task of replacing it all! Rick's guide is brilliant, will definitely be reading that again when pipe is done.....
     
  10. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    That's not an OEM pipe, someone has replaced it before. (stock has a rubber sheath)
    The crimp, I've seen a few like that - supposedly to strengthen the hose.
    Try to use good quality hose and new washers
     
  11. Alwayzsidewayz

    Alwayzsidewayz ST162 Guru Donated!

    Lol drug that is a stock part. It was from Trinty, and I got it new from.Toyota.
     
  12. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Well ive been told the pipe that Mr sidewayz gave me has a restrictive section in it,i thought it was bullshit at first but ive found the major company over here that does hydraulic pipes can do me an exact replica using the original fixings.Here it is

    [​IMG]

    Seems a bit of a discussion point,wasnt sure at first if there was any sensible reason a 165 would have different pipe from a 162...anyhow this is the replica of the one Rich gave me,and i shall be fitting it hopefully next week!I also have some copper washers that are the same dimensions as the Toyota ones,though not the ones connected together with the 'bridge'.should be fine though,the original looks well and truly crushed so i wouldnt use it again for sealing issues..Havent driven my car for 5 weeks,torture.....
    By the way ,Happy New year to all you gen4 crazies!!!!!
     
  13. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Closer inspection reveals I have the same pipe on my 162, I thought it was a/m
     
  14. Alwayzsidewayz

    Alwayzsidewayz ST162 Guru Donated!

    glad you got sorted in the end fella

    And Stig sorry for calling you drug, damn text on my phone!!
     
  15. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    lol Rich

    I checked a few scrap cars and all had the rubber cover as well as an alu sheath on them.
    So I'm wondering if they're needed as I haven't had them fitted in a couple of years
     
  16. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    I keep getting told that the metal crimp bit is a restrictor.. :shock .The old pipe still on my car has it too.hoping to sort it end of the week maybe,fitted new alternator yesterday and fired her up for first time since Nov 26.First time,battery was still on half charge :mrgreen Toyotas eh.(Still leaking PAS pipe though obviously LOL)One thing,i've been checking out the Haynes manual i've got ,it seems to say that if you remove front wheel,suspension crossmember,you can then undo the union for the pressure hose at the top,then the banjo bolt at the bottom(pump end) with the copper washers,and remove pipe.It then goes on to say briefly about pump removal.So,unless im being dumb if i just want to replace the pipe i can do this without the whole pump removal thing....?or would you need the hands of a two year old to actually do a straight pipe swap,and have to take the whole darn thing out anyway..?I noticed on Ricks guide he's taking the whole thing out,assuming its because of space restriction...I should have the car up on hydraulic ramps,if it makes any difference to access
     
  17. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

  18. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Cheers Stig,i was just wondering,sometimes trying to shortcut is a bigger pain in the butt in the long run,looks like the whole thing will have to come out.I had seen the how-to,but was hoping for just the top hose it might be easier....ah well
     
  19. fernandocelica

    fernandocelica Well-Known Member Donated!

    It's shit job:
    I have done as Kevin said remove pump with the pipe's also tried to undo that bolt with the
    cooper washer's it did not work just to little space and to tight trust me even by trying to remove the whole thing was a shit job also did not know how I even removed the pulley just to get a bolt out lol.Removed R/side wheel,side shaft,Bearing carrier and a bracket that hold's the intake for space.
     
  20. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

    Not sure what hassle everyone is having....but I was able to remove/install my pressure line with no hassle. Jacked the car up, rolled under, installed it on the pump then connected it up top.
     

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