Will try and find my whiteline set up instructions and scan them in. But basically, they take the place off one of the pair off bolts in each suspensio upright, where it bolts to the hub. They have an offset cam inside them, so that when tightened in certain posistions, they force a slight change in the angle of the upright, a tiny change is all thats needed in the one spot to give you a change in camber This is rear camber on mine set to max, which we measured at - 2.5 Basically speaking negative camber helps the suspension to force the tyre flatter in cornering... its a lot more tech than that, but a small amount of neg camber on a road car will help you in cornering. You can either set them at zero or max very easily, the tricky part is setting them up for a set up between these points. to do this you will need to either purchase or buy a camber set up tool. here is a self made guide, copied from a other forum. There are all kinds of fancy-smancy camber measuring devices. But you can do it quite accurately with stuff every garage should already have: a ruler and a square (that steel 'L' shaped thingie.) Put the short side of the square flat on the ground (park on a flat surface). And push the other side up against the tire. If the square touches both sidewalls, then you have 0 camber; if it only touches the top sidewall, you have positive camber; and if it only touches the bottom sidewall, you have negative camber. Now have a friend (or a couple of bricks) hold the square in place while you go find the ruler. Use the ruler to estimate where on the square the center of the wheel is - mark this point with a pencil or some tape. Now measure 7" above this point and mark it too - now measure the distance between the edge of the wheel and this point on the square. Make sure to hold the ruler parallel to the ground (maybe even use a bubble level). Record this value. Now, measure 7" below that center point, mark it, and measure the distance to the wheel again. Now subtract those two measurements and multiply the result by four - this is your camber in degrees. How easy is that? Example: The upper measurement is 13/16", and the lower measurement is 1/2". Since 13/16 > 1/2, the camber is negative. 13/16" - 1/2" = 5/16" difference. 5/16 * 4 = 20/16 = 1 and 1/4 degrees of negative camber. This is usually easier to do if you cut out a round piece of plywood to hold against the wheel - then you can just measure the distance to the square between any two points that are 14" vertically apart, and you don't have to worry about centering the square on the wheel. Could you explain how the heck you came up with that and how do we convert that to the Metric system for the Non-US'ers??? The actual equation would be: angle = arctan( h / l ) where h = the difference between the two measurements and l = the vertical distance between the two measurements. We used 1/4" = 1 degree because it's simple. Then we picked 14" because it just so happens that arctan (1/4" / 14") = 1 degree. As long as h<<l, the tangent function is reasonably linear; so we can make the approximation of just saying that: angle = 4 * h (in inches) To do this in metric, we need to just pick a h to represent one degree, and make sure that the required l is within reason. If we wanted to pick 5mm for h, then l would be 286 mm. If we wanted to pick 10mm for h, then l would be 573mm. That's probably the best: Measure two points 57 cm vertically apart, and you get one degree of camber for every one centimeter of difference between the measurements. angle = h (in cm). hope this helps.. Once you have all your new suspension on, it would be wise to see if you can get it all pro set up. Mafix can help you with settings, but only once you have the car bang on will your smile be as broad as can be. Even though I have set up mine, it will still be set up on a laser align bed once I am happy, as then it all gets nailed on. If you only have one pair of bolts, fit them on the front, if you have 4, go all the way round. hope this helps a little.
The standard 162 already has camber adjusters on the top shock/hub attachment bolt. Turn it up or down to move the wheel in or out There are cam adjusters on the rear links as well, not sure if they are for camber or toe adjustment?
well my nwe struts came with camber bolts, but if i re use my old ones the top one adjusts camber? which way is neg and which is positive?
heres a pic of what the bolts look like, is the lobe suppose to go thru the bolt hole or just stop at the edge of it where the strut meets the hub? im just confused on how to do this properly, like what do i do with the washer...?
At least in the U.S., they stopped putting camber adjusting bolts on the GTS with the '88 model. I suspect they found them to go out of spec too easily. My '88 BGB (Big Green Book - shop manual) talks about the camber adjusting bolts, so when I was rebuilding the suspension, I spent way too much time trying to clean my bolts enough to find the adjusting washer and when I couldn't became convinced someone had screwed with me (i.e., pick any one of the several cheap-ass mechanics who convinced me to get into car repairs for myself). Then I found a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that they stopped using the adjusting bolts from '88 on. The cam adjusting bolt is usually only in the top hole, and only one per wheel (four per vehicle). I'm not sure about where that washer should go, but the lobe should be within the steering knuckle portion of the assembly. That washer looks like it's got a smaller diameter opening and larger one. If that's the case, it may be used to 'lock in' the lobe so it can't move around (changing the adjustment) once tightened down. Is the washer also thicker on one end? Have you checked out the strut manufacturers website to see if they have PDF instructions for installing the bolts?
http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z201_KCA4(size).pdf edit for some reason it wont paste as a full link so just copy and paste to make sure it includes the ").pdf" and it works
lowering your car will induce some natural camber anyway. although propbably not alow with only 1". Weather you "need" to it depends on the wheels/tyre combo fo stock set up or similarly sized/offset wheel and tyre combos youl be fine. Plus bashing flat the inner lip on the guards is always a good idea
Interesting, that's what I thought too but I've seen quite a few 88s that still had them. They probably just used up the remaining supply I guess.
Depends on the setup, if you only install a camber bolt in the top, you only get +/- 1 degree, but if you install a camber bolt in both the upper and lower bolt holes, you get +/- 2 degrees. Toyota did stop installing camber bolts at the factory in '88, but they were still available to do alignments and correct problems. Any car '88 and onward that has them has probably had them installed for alignment purposes.
All my cars have the adjusters, incl 89 model. I think it depends which factory you are refering to? The statement "all cars 88 up" is false, maybe only in your country/region It's a lot more than 1 degree adjustment on those bolts, more like 5-10 deg
I'm referring to the celicas built for the USDM market at the Toyota plant in japan. I can't speak for the other plants/markets. The camber adjustments I got from aftermarket camber bolts, wasn't aware how much more adjustment the factory ones allow.
