After putting the new motor and gearbox into my car the motor cranks but just wont start. I've put all information I think to be useful to you guru's out there to hopefully be able to help me out. please take the time to read through it, any help or idea's would be much appreciated.

Recently I purchased a 3S-FE with a 5speed manual with intentions of taking the gearbox off and putting it on my existing motor. When I received the motor and gearbox I done just this only to find that when I took the gearbox off that the flywheel's were different (the one I purchased was 6bolt while the other original motor was 8bolt). As it turned out the 3S-FE that I purchased (out of a Corona) was quite different in places to the 3S-FE I previously had.

I then decided we would just put the complete motor and box that I purchased into the car.

Once the motor was already in the car we found out that the motor and gearbox had been sitting for 8years being turned over by hand regularly but hasn't been started. This could be related to the problem.

Things that I had to change:
Exhaust manifolds (put the one's from original motor on)
Thermostat (from the original motor as the plugs were different)
Dizzy (from the original motor)
The little electronic box that mounts off the throttle body (from original motor)

Since my car was previously auto we also had to change other things such as gear lever cables etc. We also took out a little silver computer that had a yellow sticker on it saying 3S-FE. We believed this to be the auto gearbox computer.

We also had to wire up a switch from one of the plugs (Dads an auto sparky so he done this bit) so that the car thought it was in neutral and could start.

After doing this we could get the motor cranking over. Which was pretty weak. So we then hooked up a huge truck battery to definitely rule out the chance of not having enough power. It tried to start but it only lasted a split second before it shut off again (as if it wasn't getting enough fuel to continue running).

I then went and grabbed some fuel from the local to insure that it did definitely had enough fuel. Unfortunately results didn't change.

What I'm thinking is there might be something that needs to replaced or cleaned up because it has been sitting for so long? Like I say it turns over no problem. But has some problem firing.

Please anybody who has half an idea please share it. I just want her back on the road .

Thanks in advance, Harding

ok will it fire at all?

check that you are gettin spark at the wires if yes its not that if not then check the dizzy.
did you swap injectors? if its been sitting for that long they could very likely be gummed up.

make sure your getting fuel through. easiest way is stick the fuel feed into a container and crank the motor see if it fills with fuel. if it is id say injectors (provided you are getting spark). if your not getting fuel through then check your fuel pump is getting a signal, fuel filter ist clogged. efi main relay is good.

the possibilities are kind of endles, youjust hav to g throuh on by one. been there, done that its a PIA but ry not to let it get to you coz youl then over look thing.

good luck and hope was of some help lol

Yes, but it dies within the second it starts as if there no fuel there.



Yup checked it's getting spark fine (might clean up the sparkplugs anyway just in case).

We didn't swap the injectors so you could be onto something there. I will check if the fuel pumps out as soon as I get a chance tomorrow. If the fuel does get there (ruling out the fuel pump) is there a way to see if it's being injected at the other end just to make sure that that's the problem. Is there any tricks or things I need to be aware of while swapping over injector rails? (apart from checking they are the same size and are compatible etc) I might just swap them off the other motor since I know they were working 3weeks ago when I drove the car into it's workspace.



The wha? Is that the black box on the throttle body? If that's what it is, it's like the injector rail, thermostat, fanbelt, distributor. They were all in good working order a few weeks ago when work commenced.



Yeap, we started doing that tonight and we were making progress but soon started getting frustrated and cold (once the sun goes down at the moment everything you touch seems close on freezing).

Your post was really helpful man, has given me a few things to run through tomorrow and as long as I've got stuff to try I will not have ran out of hope ;). So thanks a lot .

Harding

the electronic bit on the throttl body is the throttle position sensor. The EFI main relay is a big white relay (from memory with a chrome top) in the fuse box by the battery.

the fact that it fires then dies makes me think theres a vacuum leak or theres a bad signal. make sure your AFM is plugged in. either that or your cold start injector (just below the efi logo on the intake mainfold) make sure thats plugged in and working.

but yer just check everything these car can be a PIA the slightest little over sight like a tiny plug unplugged will fuck everything lol

on the back of the motor there is an earth strap, if this isnt on tight it wont tick over or run. check that.

Don't think injectors that have not fired in 8yrs will work that well without cleaning.

Can't understand why you are swapping an 8 bolt FE which had new gaskets/seals/bearings/pumps/belts/tensioners
and ran beautifully with a 6 bolt Corona version which hasn't run in 8yrs? - kiwi logic?

Ex manifold & exhaust is not stock - it's a GE version minus the cats (rear muffler is brand new, so are the brakes/tyres/filters!)

Some pics of the "crap" motor which I refurbed 3yrs ago




How much for the "old" motor? I'll come get it (provided it still runs)

uh where is the AFM???

JDM FE is MAP, strange but true - best conversion for these is a gen2/3

Injectors it was, swapped over injectors from the other motor and she fired straight up. Ended up having to swap waterpump as well as the seals were shot. Thanks a heap man.

@ Stig: My logic is short on money, short on time. 8bolt flywheel = 8bolt clutch. I had only one 6bolt clutch, pressure plate etc and only one 8bolt flexplate. Sure I could have gone and brought some extra bits so that it was all compatible. But with limited money and limited time it wasn't really an option. We both know that that motor isn't "crap" and I never did say that. In fact I said it was my preferred option. I would rather have bolted on a manual gearbox and then bolted everything straight back up and known that it would fire straight up when I turned the key. I'm sorry if you took that the wrong way it wasn't the way in which I intended it to come across.

Harding

Nope, I meant you're looking for trouble with an unknown motor,
for all we know the bores are already rusted and only he knows why it was removed in the 1st place

glad to hear its up and going. nothing stopping you from savig up for a new clutch and what not in aticipation for the other motor giving in lol

Rev, I think it was more a case of not finding the correct flywheel
As far as I'm aware the clutch is the same for both types

The motor was out of a crashed (in the rear end) Corona. The motor has been running pretty good, gearbox is mint! Just needs a wee bit more freeing up. I've almost done 400km since Saturday (yes it is Wednesday ) driving is great.

The engine has been using a wee bit of water, but no puddles under the car, I keep topping it up everytime it's cold but it still sucks out about 1/2 a cup of water. I've gone and got a cude today which I'm going to put in behind the thermostat and hopefully that will sort that problem out. Or identify if this motor isn't going to cut the mustard (headgasket on the way out/warped head).

Might I say too the car handles so much better now! the cornering ability of the car has just gotten amazing. It must be the improvment in mechanical grip and/or less weight in the front of the car (as the auto was much heavier than the manual).

I went and got her weighed again too. 1220KG full of fuel.

You can't let an engine stand that long and expect the H/G to still be good, acid in the oil will have
eaten into the bearings as well.

I've been tryin to explain how every kg of weight removed from the front of these cars makes a massive
difference, thanks for the findings.

The shocks in that car are due for replacement, wait till the new ones are in!

I did notice it was getting quite soft. Hit a nasty pothole tonight and had that nasty sound of the tire hitting the underside of the guard. Sorry to take this off topic but what would you recommend as replacement shocks? I was thinking about getting sport shocks that would give 1/2-1inch of drop (wouldn't want it much lower than that) that would drastically improve the handling of the car. Any Ideas?

If preferred I could create a new topic in the suspension forum ;).

the shock controls the bounce. sounds more like your springs are worn to me.

From memory there's stock springs in there and they are sagging.

I went for Kings springs and KYB shocks, gives a nice look and a firm ride,
harsh on uneven roads but good value for money

Tip, Pay attention to the rubbers and replace anything that looks worn

this was why my motor wouldnt start after i rebuilt it, its an earth strap that comes out of the wiring harness and bolts onto the back of the intake mani(or anywhere else). it wont get fuel if its not connected.

When I was under the car I did notice the front sway bar rubbers weren't exactly round and tight on the sway bar. We had the Gisborne Rally here in the weekend and between stages when the rally guys were going back to the their service I gave two of them a run (ford Seirra and KP Starlet) as much fun as it was and as well as the car handled (yeah I stayed in front of them) the amount of grip that the car could produce was quite limited. half way through corners and would hit a bump and the front would start sliding out etc.

These front sway bar mounts are definitely in need of being replaced! Perhaps the swaybar as well? Maybe the sway bar in the AT-160 is in better condition? How do you find out how good of condition a sway bar is in other than how it looks without putting it in and trying it out?

imo. the sways and springs shouldnt wear much. their spring steel and should last forever. the springs may loose a little because they are being used constantly but a sway bar really shouldnt wear at all. have you had you alignment done? good tires? these are the biggest contributors to poor handling. proper tires and alignment will make the biggest difference especially when you fit the springs/struts.